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Polo Ralph Lauren classic-collar Cotton Shirt White
Meryll Rogge created a collection of crumbling beauty, equally tinged with nostalgia and art. The Belgian designer looked to the works of Gordon Matta-Clark, who would make temporary installations from the walls of soon-to-be-destroyed buildings, as well as the prints of vintage wallpapers from the famous Priem shop in her hometown of Ghent, as inspiration for fall. She reinterpreted those handmade wallpapers as prints for fall, and finished them off with ruffles, pleats, bows and beading; it was if your grandma’s favorite lampshade was reincarnated as ready-to-wear. Mixed with bits of her sport and leisurewear codes she steered clear of retro, and her quirky take on layering and mix of menswear added range. The result was a play on structure versus softness, embellishment vs. austerity, embodied by crisp coats against lacy lingerie, chunky knits with quilted, drop-waisted skirts, shrunken tanks over plaid button downs. Bright colors felt fun and hopeful. You May Also Like Rogge’s tailoring has matured, her cuts are sharper, and here she used bonded wool to create excellent outerwear. It all felt quite romantic yet useful — a standout grass green coat had a variety of pockets that would fit all manner of electronics. The show was set in an abandoned mansion stripped down to the studs, while Rogge brought in benches covered in century-old wallpaper, and served Champagne and croissants. Plus the Belgian brigade of young designers, including Igor Dieryck and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, turned out to support. The brand is working with a new sales agent this season. “They’re really ready to take us to the next level,” she said. With her smart yet quirky pieces there should be plenty of options.
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